Keep reading our post below to know How To Test A Refrigerator Compressor Relay.
Assessing and replacing a refrigerator’s compressed machine relay isn’t a normal task for your do-it-yourselfer. However, for somebody prepared to test their best to determine a problem instead of buying a new fridge, the time may be well spent indeed. Here is the way to examine your fridge compressed machine relay for all those who have the courage and determination.
Table of Contents
How To Test A Refrigerator Compressor Relay?
- Step 1
Before working on your fridge, always unplug the device or switch off the circuit breaker that powers it.
- Step 2
Find the compressor. It’s normally big and cylindrical and in the rear of the fridge. On the ideal side of the compressor, you should see a box with wires coming from it. Within this box is the point where the compressed machine relay is.
- Step 3
Be aware that some old toaster uses a capacitor with their compressors. If a person has a capacitor wired into the compressor, then it is going to have to be discharged before working on the device.
Take your 20-amp wire wound resistor, available at most specialty electronics shops, and touch the resistor’s leads to the terminals around the capacitor. This will get rid of any kept voltage and remove the probability of a blackcurrant jolt.
- Step 4
Remove the cover onto the breaker relay box. The cover is generally held in place by retaining clips or pressure clips. There are usually are 3 elements within this box: the breaker relay, the breaker motor terminals, and the overload protector. The compressed machine relay will be the most significant component and will be rewound or steady-state.
If the area is stable, you will need to have a professional evaluation of the component since it requires specific gear for analysis. In case you’ve got a wire-wound relay, then pull it straight from the compressor.
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- Step 5
Use a set of needle-nose pliers to pull the connector off the relay’s terminal. Make sure you pull off it by grasping the connector, NOT the cable. Assess both the cable connector and the breaker relay for any signs of rust.
- Step 6
Dust the relay off, and have a fantastic look at it. It would help if you saw two plug-type terminals marked S and M and the slip-on terminal marked L.
- Step 7
Establish your multimeter, available at any home improvement store or specialty electronics shop, to see ohms, generally the X1 or even RX1 setting. Put the relay onto a level surface to ensure the S and M terminals are on the floor.
- Step 8
Add one probe of the tester at the S terminal and you at the M terminal. The tester must-read zero ohms. Maintaining the probes inserted into the terminals, turn over the relay. You should hear an audible click, and the tester’s studying needs to vary from zero to infinity.
- Step 9
Switch the relay again. Now, touch one probe into the S terminal and another probe into the L terminal. The tester must-read zero ohms. Switch it over again, together with all the probes still on the terminals, and the tester must-see infinity.
- Step 10
Switch the relay again. Now, touch one probe into the “M” terminal and another to the L terminal. The tester must-read zero ohms. Switch the relay over together with the probes still set up along with the tester’s reading shouldn’t change. It will stay at “zero” ohms.
- Step 11
If the compressed machine relay moves this collection of evaluations, then the relay isn’t the problem with your fridge. If it fails any of those evaluations, take it into an appliance parts store and buy a replacement.
- Step 12
Return to its original location in the refrigerator. Make sure you eliminate the 20-ohm resistor in the capacitor before hammering the fridge back in.
The Way To Troubleshoot Fridge Compressors
The compressor is the heart of the fridge’s hermetically sealed refrigerant system. The compressor is the most expensive element to substitute, and among those couple components of the homeowner can’t replace himself.
Providentially, the compressor is rarely the problem if a fridge fails to function properly. Generally, the problem is not as costly and more readily replaced components, like a beginning relay or thermostatic switch.
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Assess the Compressor Windings to an Open Winding
Transfer the fridge away from the wall and unplug its power cord from the wall receptacle. You’ll use the ohms work on your digital multimeter to troubleshoot the compressor, and using electricity applied to the circuit under test provides false readings and damages the tube. Find the compressor’s begin relay and then pull it off the springs on the blower’s face.
Modern refrigerators utilize solid-state begin relays, which may be recognized by the two wires linking to it. The three hooks shown are marked S, C, and R for Run, Common, and get started winding pins.
When the pins aren’t marked, place the electronic meter purpose switch to the R to 1 scale, and find both pins that provide the maximum reading; those hooks would be the run and begin winding pins the rest of the nail is the many slides. In case the meter LCD shows an O.L. when assessing between both of the hooks, then the compressor is weak and has to be replaced.
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Assess for Shorted Motor Windings
Two sorts of shorts may happen in a compressor engine, a turn-to-turn short inside a twisting or even a winding-to-frame short. The reading obtained between the Run and Common and the Start and Frequent hooks must be included.
Five ohms of one another. If those readings are significantly different, the twisting with the considerably lower reading comes with a turn-to-turn short, and the compressor has to be replaced.
Assess for a winding-to-the-motor-frame brief by merely taking an understanding between each one of the hooks and the blower casing. In case the meter’s LCDs anything besides an O.L. through these evaluations, the compressor is weak and has to be replaced.
Assess the Thermostatic Control
In case the motor windings try out great, the problem is a terrible motor starting relay or a poor controller control switch. As there’s absolutely no simple method for you to look at the good state beginning relay without altering a new one, check the thermostatic control button.
Put the switch between 5 and 4, check for continuity between the plug and the wires connected to the start relay. The meter’s LCD should exhibit a 0.000 reading between all sides of the cap and the cables connected to the start relay.
If the team screens an O.L., the thermostatic controller is awful and has to be replaced. In the event the thermostatic switch checks out great, replace the solid-state motor starting relay.
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If the compressor assesses out but doesn’t begin and run normally, the compressor might be captured up or have bad valves or bearings. In such scenarios, it has to be replaced. Don’t try to substitute a faulty compressor yourself. Call in the pros. The EPA should accredit you to use refrigerants.